Travelling to the other side of town for breakfast is an indulgence few often consider. While we are happy to travel a significant distance for lunch or dinner, the thought of a morning expedition for the first meal of the day remains curiously underrated. But this is precisely what I did last weekend, leaving my house at 8:30 in the morning while the rest of London were either having a lie-in or still asleep.
Navigating the tranquil streets of London as the city still yawns and stretches, with empty tubes and very few pedestrians in sight is serene, however it led me to a breakfast destination that was worth my journey starting at one end of the Northern line to a few stations short of the other end.
Opened in June, Kachori is a delightful eatery tucked away in a leafy neighbourhood of Elephant & Castle, a few minutes walk from the underground station. This part of London has undergone a remarkable transformation. Gone is the eyesore of the pink and red coloured shopping centre, and now this part of south east London is home to shiny, tall buildings, swanky apartments and boujie shops, restaurants and cafes. The actual Elephant & Castle statue has been kept for nostalgic reasons no doubt and can be found within a short distance of Kachori.
Speaking of which, this restaurant boasts an impressive pedigree. The vision and execution come from the esteemed British-Pakistani food and restaurant consultant, Humayun Hussain, on behalf of the proprietor, Sorowar Khan. Khan is no stranger to the London dining scene, also owning Mango Indian close to Borough Market in London Bridge. The culinary magic behind the scenes is helmed by the renowned Executive Chef Brinder Narula, an alumnus of Michelin-starred establishments like Benares and Gymkhana. Alongside him, Kachori’s Head Chef Manpreet Ahuja, previously of Café Spice Namaste, crafts the delightful dishes.
Breakfast – or ‘nashta‘ in Urdu/Hindi – at Kachori is special. Available every Friday to Sunday morning from 8am to 11am, each dish has been chosen to reflect the childhood memories of the chefs growing up in the region of northern India such as the Bhature, Pindi Chole, Halwa (puffed fried bread with spiced chickpeas and semolina halwa); the Anda aur Ajwaini Paratha (fried eggs with carom seed paratha and homemade achaar), and the uthappam (a fermented ground rice and lentil pancake, served with a coconut chutney). The Bhature, Pindi Chole, Halwa dish (£15) caught my mum’s attention who had been longing to have this for breakfast for such a long time so it was only fitting that this was ordered for the queen.
We also ordered the Chilli Cheese Omelette, served with grilled tomato and masala baked beans (£12), and the Club Kachori, their signature club sandwich, generously loaded with smoked chicken salad, melting spiced cheese, fried egg, greens, beef tomato (£12). This was all washed down with masala chai and a flat white. Cocktails and smoothies are also available on the menu.
It was an exceptionally warm day so we couldn’t resist the chance to sit outside and dine al fresco. It was just as well as shortly after we had arrived, the outside tables started filling up fast. I caught a glimpse of the restaurant inside and it is tastefully furnished though on this occasion, it was sublime to sit outside, under the shade and people watch.
The Chilli Cheese Omelette was divine – melted cheddar cheese enveloped inside the omelette and just the right amount of flavour and portion with the spicy baked beans. Simple yet packs a punch, and something I would order again.
The Bhature, Pindi Chole, Halwa selection was a stand-out, marrying the savoury taste of the puris with the spicy mix of chickpeas, cooled down with the subtle sweetness of the halwa. It’s a traditional dish eaten for breakfast in India and Pakistan and it had mum smiling from ear to ear with every mouthful. The puris were beautifully fluffy and filling, and the chick peas (or ‘chole’) were full of flavour while the semolina halwa cleansed the palate wonderfully.
The Club Kachori comes with a divine dollop of coleslaw. I mean, it is seriously good – absolute perfection in fact. I could have devoured a tub of it. It was finely chopped and in a delicious dressing. As a club sandwich, it’s packed with a multitude of layers and textures, incredibly filling and with a sharply cut cross-section.
Our visit was only enhanced further by the service, in particular our waitress Risha who looked after us from the moment we walked in, and equally took care of the other diners. Good food is one thing, but exceptional service takes it to the next level. In a competitive market of Indian restaurants in the capital, Kachori stands head and shoulders above some of the big names. I’m happy to stick my neck on the line here and say, skip the popular haunts and the usual suspects, and take a walk on the wild side to Elephant & Castle. You’ll walk away, thinking about the food you’ve tasted at Kachori for days and will then be plotting your return.
For more on Kachori’s breakfast menu as well as other menus, visit https://kachorirestaurant.com.
*My visit to Kachori was complimentary for review purposes but my words and opinion are entirely my own. All prices quoted are correct at the time of publication. Please check the venue’s menu for the most up-to-date prices.
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