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Dishoom has been trending on Twitter recently namely because it has ridiculously long queues and masquerades as an authentic Indian restaurant (though it’s been argued it actually pays homage to the Iranian cafes in Bombay originally opened by the Zoroastrian immigrants from Iran). Whatever. I realise it’s disrespectful to discuss Dishoom in a review of another restaurant but I felt it was kind of apt as it’s been dividing people on social media. It’s like Marmite – you either love it or hate it, and I hate it.
So this brings me onto Mango Indian, a fine dining Indian restaurant situated at the end of Borough Market by London Bridge. Not in the slightly bit Dishoom-y. If you can tear yourself away from the stalls of Borough Market, I promise you that if you make your way to Mango Indian, you’ll be in for a treat. And you’ll get to sit down too.
A pretty glass fronted restaurant, when you step inside you’re greeted by the friendliest staff. The interior is exceptional, warm tones with comfortable, leather seats. Mango Indian, which has been going for 15 years, has recently brought in new Head Chef Badri Prasad, a new a la carte menu and new mocktails and cocktails and judging by the descriptions of each dish, it’s an understatement to say I was salivating.
We kicked things off with a selection of starters: a basket of Papadums with a trio of chutneys (£4.50), Adraki Lamb Chops (£9), Kale & Shakarkandi Chat (£7), Soft Shell Crab a(£8.50) and Kolis Koliwada (£9.50). Hands down, the Kale & Shakarkandi Chat was outstanding: crispy kale and tangy sweet potato chaat, drizzled with ginger tamarind chutney, nylon sev and pomegranate. Beautifully served, the kale took this popular snack to the next level.
The Adraki Lamb Chops, marinated in homemade yoghurt and ground spices marinade, were tender, flavoursome and spicy – a real kick to them. The Soft Shell Crab was deep fried in a tempura batter with ginger, garlic, green chilli and crushed black pepper while the Kolis Koliwada were crispy deep-fried meaty prawns paired with chilli mayo yogurt and lemon.
Starters at an Indian restaurant rarely disappoint so it’s a wise move to order a number of dishes. In fact, I would happily order a few more and make a meal of it.
Moving onto mains, we went for Lamb Dum Biryani (£18.95) and Makhani Murgh (£14.95) with Plain Basmati Rice (£3.20) and Garlic Naan (£3.50). The Dum Biryani arrived sealed with a chapati in a traditional dum pot. The slow-cooked basmati rice was infused with delicious spices and the lamb was deliciously tender.
The Makhani Murgh is usually mild, however it is possible to request for to be taken up a notch, as I did. The chicken, cooked in a rich and creamy tomato and yoghurt-based sauce, was succulent and tasty. The extra heat added another layer to the dish so if you like it hot, go for it. We washed our meal down with a choice of three different mocktails (£7 each): Refresher (Fresh Berries, Lemon Juice, Guava Juice, Peach Purée), All Day Long (Fresh Passion Fruit, Mango Juice, Fresh Lime, Sugar, Passion Fruit Purée) and Lychee Cooler (Lychee Juice, Passion Fruit Purée, Vanilla Syrup, Fresh Passion Fruit). Expertly mixed, All Day Long and Lychee Cooler were the clear winners.
Finally, our epic feast was rounded off with Matka Kulfi (£6.50), Indian ice cream made with milk, saffron, pistachios and almonds. Pleasant enough, however kulfi is a tricky one to nail and this one fell just short of it.
Mango Indian is unassumed and tucked away in the back streets but it is the jewel in the crown of London Bridge. With so many other eateries to choose from, it would be a shame to miss out on this one. The revamped menu pushes the boundaries, adding a contemporary twist to traditional Indian dishes and the gamble has paid off. I mean, that kale for crying out loud – that’s special. Add to that the wonderful hospitality of the staff and you’ve got an Indian restaurant which knocks the spots off others. And Dishoom.
For more information on Mango Indian as well as its menu, visit https://lovemango.co.uk/.
*My visit to Mango Indian was complimentary for review purposes but my words and opinion are entirely my own. All prices quoted are correct at the time of publication. Please check the venue’s menu for the most up-to-date prices.
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